Scotland: Day 1

When you visit a major foreign city, there are just some things you have to do.  You have to visit the Louvre, the Coliseum, the Statue of Liberty.  They're so iconic, so much of what the city projects and is that you have no choice but to battle everyone else who has the same thought.  Whether any of that perception is true, you have to find out for yourself.  And in Edinburgh, we had to see the castle.  I’m not really sure why other than it’s the most mentioned, photographed and prominent landmark in the city.  So we began the day by hiking up the hill to see this grand structure.

Sitting here, I’m still not sure why if I’m better off for having seen it.  We even dropped several pounds on audio guides hoping that some context would help enlighten the moment.  Sure, it’s impressive that it had been built so far up this steep and rocky mount, but not so steep and rocky that it hadn’t been compromised several times, smashed and rebuilt.  It was steep and rocky enough that the royalty of the time didn’t frequent it much, robbing it of any truly impressive buildings or works of art.  It did serve as a nice spot to overlook the city, but battling the crowds and dealing with pushy tourists also sucked some of the joy from what probably truly is an impressive structure.  

After a couple hours we decided to depart, deciding that we’d counter balance this by visiting the new Scottish Parliament building on the other end of the Royal Mile.  Thankfully the crowds lightened as we made our way in that direction.  It didn’t quite dwindle, but they were more than manageable.  Apparently there are enough people such as we who thought they’d get some enjoyment for visiting a functioning government building.  Now, this was not just some drab structure.  Designed by an architect of some reknown, who I of course can’t remember now, it is a modern work that both is a counter point to the old city its use of materials and design not found anywhere, but also one that brings in elements and symbols from the surrounding area and people.  

Inside, we browsed a photograph exhibit full of photos both beautiful and profoundly disturbing.  Telling stories of peoples lives on the fringes or in times of tragedy, you walked away struck by the fragility of the human life.  We could only take in so much, so we regrouped in the debating chamber.  A quiet spot with only a handful of fellow tourists, we took in the place where the elected representatives debate and enact law.  Somewhat of an ironic place to be after seeing images of what law couldn’t prevent.  

Finally deciding it was time to move on, we braved some of the fine Scottish rain showers and strolled through on the hillside cemeteries.  Dating back hundreds of years, the place was serene, but oddly unkept.  Apparently with no central body willing to preserve grave stones or sites, other than to cut the grass, headstone had begun to fall over or decay.  Mausoleums were covered by vines, some so thick you could no longer read the inscriptions.  Another cemetery further up the hill featured a small statue of Abraham Lincoln commemorating the Scottish role in the civil war.  Again, kind of odd.  

There was only one thing to do after such a grim afternoon.  Find a drink.  We referred to the list, but rather than find a spot nearby, we agreed to hoof it a mile and a half southward past the university to a fine heritage bar called Leslies.  In retrospect, we might have been better off to find a bus, but lesson learned for next time.  The bar was quite unique.  As we walked in, we knew we were outside the tourist zone, it being full of locals.  But, there was an old beauty to it too, still having a carved wood partition running down the middle that in old times separated the rich from the poor.  The poor came to the public side, while the more well off came in the other.  The partition had small windows like you’d see in a bank that offered patrons some privacy in ordering and entertaining.  But today, you can simply walk around it, order your pint and sit where you like.  And so that’s what we did.  We chatted up the bartender, who gave us the backstory on the bar.  But after all that walking, we were hungry.  We’d have to leave Leslies and find somewhere good to eat.  The power of Yelp helped us next, recommending a 4.5 star Turkish restaurant just up the road.  Again, why keep eating fish and chips or bangers and mash, when you’ve got the finest of the British empire at your disposal.

The things you find during a long walk

Inside Leslies

Once more, we walked in and were greeted with such a mouth watering smell.  What passed for a kitchen was immediately just inside the door, with a dining room only big enough for maybe 20 people just off to the right.  We were asked if we had reservations, which was a good sign, but were also quickly seated.  So much like the Indian restaurant the night before, we gorged ourselves on a fine spread of Turkish food.  Starting with a selection of “cold” starters, we finished with lamb shish and moussaka.  Probably too large of a spread for when we left, we decided that a long walk back was probably a good thing.  But where to go?  Well, back to Tuetchers of course.  

And so the long walk began.  Not quite as long as the walk in, but enough to finish a day that saw us take 22K steps.  Tuetchers was a bit busier than the night before and we didn’t end up with quite as comfy a spot, but the whisky flight (Speyside this time) was great again and helped burn through some of that food.  We couldn’t make it to a cheese plate this night and instead opted to retire back to the room.